表面纤维直径与羊毛机织精纺面料的刺痒感

通过前臂试验对26种轻薄型羊毛机织精纺面料和7种其他纤维的轻薄型机织面料的刺痒感进行了比较研究,并用显微镜对部分轻薄型羊毛机织面料的表面纤维分布进行了研究。结果表明多数毛织物在温度为(24±1)℃、相对湿度为(65±5)％的条件下存在刺痒感,并且毛织物的刺痒感与其表面纤维的平面直径及直径大于26μm的表面纤维根数密切相关。     

Effect of Rating Scales and Test Parts of Body on the Evaluation Results of Fabric-evoked Prickle

IntroductionThe studies of Schneider and Holcombe[1]and Liet al .[2]demonstrated that s mooth and light-weightwool fabrics were able to enhance fabrics in the market-place the sensations of coolness when worn in war m andhumid environments due to wool s hygroscopicity . Thisis the principle underlying the development of “coolwool”.However ,someti mes wool products are complainedof prickle . In the study of Wang et al .[3],it was foundthat the main shortcoming in ter ms of comfort for light…     

THE EFFECT OF, ABRASION ON LOW STRESS MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF FABRIC

The low stress mechanical properties of a pure wool and a wool / polyester blend twill fab-rics which were abraded at various abrasion cycles were measured using the KES-F system andthe Instron tensile machine. The surface change of fabrics before and after abrasion was stu-died by means of scanning electron microscope. With the increasing number of cycles, the re-covery behavior of the fabrics studied in tensile, shear and bending deformation decrease, theantibuckling ability lowers, the friction coefficient increases. The geometric roughness de-creases during the first step of abrasion then enhances with further abrasion. The influence ofabrasion on mechanical properties of the pure wool fabric are larger than that of blend fabric.     

Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅱ: the Gauge Length and Elongation Speed in Wool Fibre Bundle Measurement

The testing conditions of a fibre bundle tensile tester (TENSOR) are elongation speed (ES), gauge length (GL), pretension, jaw pressure, environmental temperature and relative humidity, instrument linearity and sensitivity. The effects on fibre-bundle tensile properties at different GL and ES have been discussed in detail and compared with Peirce's theories on the weaklinks and the breaking time effect. The experimental results indicate that the tensile properties of fibre bundles are strongly affected by GL and vary with different GL. The reasonable GL should be 5-15mm rather than 3.2mm for wool bundle measurements. The ES ranging from 20mm/min to 40mm/min is beneficial for obtaining comparatively stable and accurate tensile values, whereas 20 mm/min used in current testing for wool fibre bundles is at the lower limit of the suggested range. For bundle modulus measurement, the sampling interval must be selected appropriately. The new calculation of the sampling interval has been established.     

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅱ: Calculations of the Modulus Method and the Percentage Method

IntroductionTheblendratioofyarnsandfabricscanbemeasuredbyfibresolution[1,2 ] ,imageanalysisofmicroscopy[3 ,4] ,infraredspectroscopy[5,6] ,X raydiffraction[7,8] ,thermo analyses[9] andothermethods[10 ,11,12 ] .However ,thetensiletestsofsinglefibresorfibreassembliesarethenecessaryandthemost popularmeasurementintextileprocessingand qualitycontrol[13 ,14 ] .Thereisevidentrelationshipbetweenthetensile propertiesandtheblendratioofblendedfibreassemblies[15,16,17] .Therefore ,whynottopredicttheblendr…     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅰ: Sample Preparation, Bundle Mass and Fibre Alignment of Wool Bundles

ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＦｉｂｒｅｂｕｎｄｌｅｔｅｎｓｉｌｅｔｅｓｔｅｒｓｗｅｒｅｏｒｉｇｉｎａｌｌｙｄｅｖｅｌｏｐｅｄａｎｄｓｔａｎｄａｒｄｉｓｅｄｆｏｒｃｏｔｔｏｎｆｉｂｒｅｓ[1,2 ] .Ｔｈｅｐｕｒｐｏｓｅｗａｓｔｏｇｉｖｅａｒａｐｉｄｍｅａｓｕｒｅｍｅｎｔｏｆｍｅａｎｆｉｂｒｅｓｔｒｅｎｇｔｈｗｈｉｃｈａｖｏｉｄｓｔｈｅｎｅｃｅｓ ｓｉｔｙｏｆｍｅａｓｕｒｉｎｇａｌａｒｇｅｎｕｍｂｅｒｏｆｓｉｎｇｌｅｆｉｂｒｅｓ.Ｔｈｅｆｉｂｒｅｂｕｎｄｌｅｔｅｓｔｅｒｗａｓｌａｔｅｒｕｓｅｄｆｏｒｗｏｏｌｆ…     

Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅰ: Sample Preparation, Bundle Mass and Fibre Alignment of Wool Bundles

Due to the effects of samples and testing conditions on fibre-bundle tensile behaviour, it is necessary to investigate the relationships between experimental factors and tensile properties for the fibre-bumdle tensile tester (TENSOR). The effects of bundle sample preparation, fibre bundle mass and fibre alignment have been tested. The experimental results indicated that (1) the low damage in combing and no free-end fibres in the cut bundle are most important for the sample preparation; (2) the reasonable bundle mass is 400- 700tex, but the tensile properties measured should bemodified with the bundle mass because a small amount of bundle mass causes the scatter results, while the larger is the bundle mass, the more difficult to comb fibres parallel and to clamp fibre evenly; and (3) the fibre irregular arrangement forms a slack bundle resulting in interaction between fibres, which will affect the reproducibility and accuracy of the tensile testing.     

Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

Introduction Manypeopleexperienceapricklesensationwhentheywearsomewoolgarments.Itwaspreviouslythoughtthatthi pricklesensationmayhavebeentheresultofanallergyto wool.However,thestudyofGarnsworthyetalshowedtha theprickleevokedbywoolfabricwasnotderivedfroman allergytowool.Ratherthecauseoffabric evokedpricklewa themechanicalexcitationofskin painreceptorsfromthe coarsefiberendsprotrudingfromthefabricsurface[1].Thei studyalsoshowedthatinsomefabrics,fibersprotrudingfrom thesurface,whichwereabletosu…     

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅲ:The Definition Method and the Relationships between the Blend Ratio and Tensile Parameters Calculated from Different Ways

The algorithms of the strength, work, modulus and percentage methods have been introduced and discussed in Part Ⅰ and Part Ⅱ of the series papers. As the following, the percentage-function calculation and the frequency-function calculation of the definition method are defined and developed in detail. Meanwhile, the procedures to find the tensile parameters are analysed experimentally and involve "ED" being the average values of the corresponding tensile parameters of each bundle tensile curve measured; "EC" being the tensile parameters obtained from the averaged experimental tensile curve; and "TC" being the parameters of the theoretical tensile curve according to the corresponding nominal blend ratio. The theoretical and experimental results indicate that the blend ratio estimated by the definition method from wool/polyester blended fibre bundles has a high correlation with the actual blend ratio though the variables to be known in this method are the most of all the methods and there exist the difficulty to solve fibre bundle tensile behaviour without fibre broken in accuracy and that there are high correlations between the EC and TC data and the tensile parameters should be calculated using the EC method rather than the ED method with the exception of the bundle initial modulus. The relationships between blend ratios and the tensile properties of blended fibre bundles can be used to select the optimum blend ratio of blended tops or yarns.